Raised on beer to make the tastiest burgers in town
Simmental beef is proving a winning ingredient in Taupō restaurant Jimmy Coops. This bustling diner-style establishment is known to locals and visitors alike for its delicious burgers, award-winning beer and laid-back warm hospitality. The beef and the beer are sourced a short drive away from Lakeman Farms, owned by Taupō couple James and Elissa Cooper.
James knows a thing or two about brewing beer, and a great deal about raising cattle. He’s passionate about both and has combined the two to create the tastiest burgers you’ll find in Taupō. It’s a story that goes back to the early 2000s. James had been farming sheep and cattle on a lease block and Elissa was a vet in a local practice when they had the opportunity to buy a block of land on the hills above Lake Taupō. They inherited a mob of pure-bred Simmental cattle and started farming their own land. At Lakeman Farms, the Coopers farm 400 hectares and run their Simmental herd in conjunction with their lamb finishing operation.
Protecting the local environment has always been important to the couple. “We take immense pride in every aspect of our work while ensuring the kaitiakitanga of our land and our lake.” Farming around Taupō comes with consideration. Much of the land around the lake has nitrogen input caps in place, limiting livestock numbers and fertilizer application. With a focused operation, the Coopers had to diversify to continue to farm sustainably.
The answer? Beer. “We knew we had to take action to alleviate the pressure on the lake, all while allowing us to raise our young family on the farm. We established Lakeman Brewing Co., while managing a herd of around 170 Simmental cattle.” The move to brewing beer didn’t happen overnight. It took a fair amount of trial and error, and a good dose of, “will we, won’t we?”. But James’s vision prevailed and Lakeman beer took off. The headquarters and brewery are in a shed in the middle of their working farm.
Further diversification and the culmination of the Cooper’s many strengths were the opening of restaurant Jimmy Coops in 2021, which they co-own with other Taupō locals, Vaughn and Lee Nairn. People come from all corners to tuck into the mouthwatering menu of handmade burgers. Washed down by a refreshing beer of course. James hand delivers the beef and beer from their farm. At ten minutes from farm gate to kitchen door, you don’t get much fresher than this. It’s a true paddock to plate story.
So why Simmental beef on the menu? James wouldn’t have it any other way. “They’re the perfect fit for our system. The cows milk well and they’re a fast-growing animal that’s very good at turning grass into meat. Being in Taupō, grass has a shorter growing season, so we need to maximise our time. We’re calving mid-September and sell our weaner bulls by March. We need good weights – and we get them – around 300 kilos.”
The Simmentals destined for the burgers are the Coopers’ cull heifers. “We have around 25 to 30 each year, which we kill at around 16 months.” It’s not just the grow rates James loves; it’s the quality and taste too. “Simmental aren’t as fatty as other breeds, and that’s ideal for Jimmy’s burger mince mix.”
James has perfected producing top quality beef that’s packed with flavour. And it comes down to the most important meal of the day, breakfast. “We feed our cull heifers grain from the brewery. It’s kind of like warm porridge on a winter’s morning, and they absolutely relish it. They come running when they see it arriving on the tractor. This practice promotes sustainability, both environmentally and financially, making it a win-win in our books.”
The Simmental love it. And so do the chefs at Jimmy Coops. James explains, “Using the same grain used in brewing our beer adds to the flavour of the beef, making it sweet and juicy. Our chefs have honed the art of creating the most succulent beef patties and pulled beef in all of New Zealand, we believe.” Head chef Alastair New has a steely focus on quality. “Our beef is ten times better than anywhere else. You can taste the freshness and flavour.”
James and Elissa have a firm eye on sustainability across all they do. This includes optimising their Simmental beasts. “We sell the whole animal through Jimmy Coops. It’s not just the burgers, we have pulled beef, brisket and have a smoke night once a month.”
Customers love it. The restaurant has loyal regulars and tourists queueing up for a hearty feed. “We’re getting a lot of repeat customers and the feedback is great.” And if you’re looking for a signature Jimmy Coops Simmental burger, here’s what James recommends, “It’s gotta be the Dusty Monday or Coops Classic, paired with a Taupō Thunder of course.”
Visit Jimmy Coops here and you can find out more about Lakeman Farms and their Simmental mob here.